Day 6 - Chhomrong to Deurali

 “What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us.” - Ralph Waldo Emerson

Today Donna and I would find what lies within us. We start the day early, 6:30AM, as we always do and caught the sun rising on Annapurna south.

Sunrise on Annapurna South

The day was sunny and warm, not to hot, which made it great for trekking. From our hotel the trail goes, first through town, then heads down about 1300ft (395m) in 1 mile (1.6Km) to the Chhomrong Khola (The term "khola" means, in local (Nepali) language, river). Spanning the river is a short suspension bridge which Donna crosses with much more confidence.

Suspension Bridge crossing Chhomrong Khola

Continuing on, the trail gradually slopes up and we can look back and get some wonderful views of the morning sun rising on Chhomrong.

Going up

Village of Chhomrong

Entering the Annapurna Sanctuary

We patiently make our way on the trail as it crests along the ridge terracing the gorge. By 8:45 we stop at a small town, Sinuwa, for some refreshments. Donna gets her standard can of juice and I get my usual milk tea. The views from this vantage point are prodigious! While relaxing we greet many other trekkers who are doing the same. Some are heading up to ABC and others returning. This time also gives us a chance to remove some of our layer as it’s starting to get pretty warm.

Donna and her can of juice

Some peace from Nepal

Rested up we gear up and hit the trail. Of course the trail heads down and transitions into a beautiful bamboo forest. Inside we are only able to catch brief glimpse of fish tail.

The gorge leading to ABC

Fish Tail

I think he wants to go with us

Sheep in Bamboo

The bamboo forest is beautiful, rivaling the rhododendron forest we hiked through yesterday. By 10:30 we stop at, where else, town of Bamboo for lunch. After filling our bellies we pack and tramp up the trail.

Town of Bamboo

  

Fish Tail

As we march along around every turn I am waiting to see our destination the village of Deurali (elevation 10,500 ft, 3200m). With each hill we climb I get more and more tied and anxiously long to view our end point. What’s on top of this hill, another hill, nothing but another hill to climb. By now I am way in front of Donna who I lost sight of. Growing more tired I’m concerned how Donna is doing but, feel OK that she is with Govinda. Finally I see my destination and I arrive at about 3PM.

Deurali

Our Lodge in Deurali

I wait for about an hour and a half, maybe longer, before Donna and Govinda come up the trail. Donna softly said “I’m finished, I can’t go on, I’ll wait here for you until you return from ABC”. I just say lets rest, eat, sleep and see how things are in the morning. So we change into our sleeping cloth and sit in the common area for a while. Both Donna and I are extremely tired so off to bed by 6. Today’s hike turned out to be a very long and difficult one for both of us. We’ll wait to see how we feel in the morning to decide what our next step will be.

“If you aren’t in over your head, how do you know how tall you are?”

Today’s hiking totals, 8.5 hrs. Tom, 10 hrs. Donna, 12.5 miles (20Km). Actual total ascent and descent was 7400ft (2255m) and 4500ft (1372m). That's a lot of up and down!!!

Brother and Sister



Interesting Sign

Love and Peace D&T 

Day 5 - Tadapani to Chhomrong

“If you want to make your dreams come true, the first thing you have to do is wake up.” - J.M. Power

5AM already! I have been setting my alarm to wake me at 5AM everyday. Early to bed early to rise and I may just catch the sun rise. “What is the good of your stars and trees, your sunrise and the wind, if they do not enter into our daily lives?” E.M. Foster.

Sunrise in Tadapani

Our bedroom had a cold damp feeling which made it difficult to sleep, sort of like sleeping in a cave. This part of the hotel does not get much sunshine so I assume that was the reason. We’ll off to breakfast - oat porridge and apple of course. We hit the trail at our usual time 7AM and walk pass what I think looks like a scare crow. I ask one of the locals, what’s that ? It’s a monkey man. A monkey man ? I curiously respond. What’s a monkey man ? It keeps the monkeys out of the fields. OK, I get it - a scare crow, I mean scare monkey.

Monkey Man

Today’s destination is Chhomrong, elevation 7,300ft (2225m). The trail starts off by going down for about 2.5 mils (4Km) at a loss of 2700 ft (823m). It wines through some of the largest most beautiful Rhododendron trees I ever saw. To see these bloom in April must be magical. Another trip possibly?

Rhododendron Forest

We eventually pop out of the forest back into the farming style landscape seeing the occasional farm proudly displaying perfectly manicured terraced fields. We spy a little dog just sitting and watching the trekkers march by - a treat is maybe what’s he’s after ?

Nice

Mountain Dog

For the next 3 miles (5Km) the trail goes slowly up.  Passing a few more waterfalls we arrive at another suspension bridge. Donna has gotten adjusted to crossing but, is always just a little apprehensive. Maybe I shouldn’t jump up and down on the bridge as she crosses.  Na, that’s just to much fun!


One of many waterfalls



Suspension Bridge

We eventually stop for lunch at the village of Churjung - Del Bhat of course. The taste of the Del Bhat is very familiar to what we had in Banthanti. Turns out the cook is the mother of the owner of the lodge in Banthanti. He learned his craft well. During lunch our guide adorns himself with some beautiful flowers. An improvement, perhaps?


The cook

Flower Power

To cute for words

A few more miles of up and down trekking, nothings flat in Nepal, and we reach our destination, the Panorama Point Lodge in Chhomrong. From our hotel we start to get a view of the narrow gorge we must hike through to get to our final destination - ABC. After we settle into our rooms we walk through the town which has a few shops, internet and a German bakery. No sweets now but, maybe on the way back. We did a quick blog update but, the internet is still very slow and a pain to use. Finally we make our way back to our hotel, get some ginger tea and relax in the common area.

Nice farm land

Working the land

Today’s hiking totals, 5 hours, 5.6 miles (9Km),

Today’s hiking totals, 5 hours, 5.6 miles (9Km) with a net loss in elevation of 1575ft (480m). Actual total ascent and descent was 2000ft (610m) and 3500ft (1067m). Nothing is flat in Nepal, you’re either going up or down.

Keep the faith, peace and love Tom and Donna

Day 4 - Ghorepani to Tadapani

”Remember that happiness is a way of travel, not a destination.” - Roy Goodman

I wake early as I want to try and capture a time-lapse of the sun rising on Dhaulagiri. I get the camera/tripod all set up and start rolling by 6:13AM. Final results get OK but, I still need to work on my time-lapse technique. By 7 we’re all packed up and ready to head for Tadapani which is only at a elevation of 8,793ft (2869m). It’s another beautiful sunny day with a bit of chill in the air - great day for hiking. After leaving Ghorepani the trail gradually slops up another 1,000 (305m) to a height of 10,500 ft (3210m). Once there you traverse along a ridge line, also know as Dhaulagiri pass, that give you great views of Annapurna South & Dhaulagiri. By 8 we arrive at a resting spot/tea house where we stop and take multiple photos. Traveling towards Ghorepani would provide better views as you are hiking facing the mountain range not away as we are. For those who do this trek in the future you may want to consider trekking towards Chorepani when traversing this trail. 

Annapurna South



Annapurna South



Trekking Crew, Ram, Govinda, Tom, Donna

Eventually we enter the forest and our views of the mountains become limited. The peaks do appear periodically through the branches which provide excellent framing for another round of pictures. 

Annapurna South

At about the 5 mile mark (8Km) the trail heads steeply down through a gorge. It’s about a 3,500 ft (1065m) drop in 1.5 miles (2.4Km) so it pretty steep. It’s a beautiful trail that traverses along a small stream with multiple waterfalls. 

These guys are everywhere in and around Nepal



Heavy

 By 10AM we stop at the Sun Rise Lodge, in Banthanti, for lunch. The lodge is owned by a friend of our guide who was once a guide. He gave it up to be a lodge owner. BTW, the Del Bhat was absolutely great!!

Govinda at the Sun Rise Lodge, Banthanti

Back on the trail we run into some children playing the old hoop rolling game. Boy haven’t seen that lately or ever for that fact. 

Playing Stick and Hoop Game

By 12PM we reach Tadapani. Our lodge is the Himalayan Tourist Guess House.

Tadapani

Our Lodge for Tonight

Walking around town I spot a father pushing his daughter on a swing. There are swings all through Nepal as the locals erect them to celebrate the current festival of Dashai. The kids and adults love it.

Fun

Annapurna South

As we are eating dinner I notice that the sun is starting to set on Machhapuchhre, also known as Fish Tail, turning it red. I quickly grab my camera and get a last second picture before the sun disappears over the horizon. “Clouds come floating into my life, no longer to carry rain or usher storm, but to add color to my sunset sky“. Rabindranath Tagore

Machhapuchhre, or Fish Tail, view from our hotel

I thought you knew where we were, you're the guide

Today’s hiking totals, 5 hours, 8 miles (12.9Km) with a net loss in elevation of 600 ft (183m). Of course the actual total ascent and descent was 5600ft (1707m) and 6200ft (1890m). Nothing is flat in Nepal, you’re either going up or down.


Nice couple we meet from Holland

Peace and Love Donna and Tom

Day 3 - Poon Hill

“Don’t ask what the world needs. Ask what makes you come alive and go do it. Because what the world needs is more people who have come alive” – Howard Thurman.

Waking up early, 4:30AM, we quickly dress and head down to the hotel lobby where we’ll meet up with Govinda. Today we head up to Poon Hill where we hope to catch views of Dhaulagiri, at 26,794 ft (8,176 m) is the 7^th highest mountain in the world, and Machhapuchhre (or Fish Tail) at 22,943 ft (6,993 m). No one has ever climbed to the summit of Machhapuchhre. It’s cold and there is no one up this early to make us milk coffee - bummer. The trail leading up to Poon Hill starts just next to our hotel. Already crowds of people, head lamps blazing, pass by on their way to the top. After making final preparations we venture out and join the ant like procession methodically making it’s way up the trail. It takes us about 35 minutes to reach the top, elevation 10,500 ft (3210m). It’s pretty cold, around freezing, and my hands and toes are getting quite chilled as we stand in anticipation of the sun rise. The sky is clear and we can see the dimming twinkling light from the last remaining visible stars. As dawn begins to brighten the landscape we wait to see which peak will be the first to kiss the morning sun. At 6:14 Annapurna South at 23,684 ft (7,219m) is the first peak to bask in the beams of the newly risen light.

Annapurna South at sunrise

About 1 minute later Dhaulagiri gets hit by the sun rays. It’s fun to continue watching the sun slowly awaken all the white snow peaks. By 6:25 the suns work is complete.

Dhaulagiri at sunrise

We stick around for another hour snapping pictures and just soaking in all the beauty that was just reveled to us. It’s a lovely sunny day with blue skies and white mountain peaks surrounding us - what could be better? A cup of milk coffee perhaps?



Poon Hill sign

Poon Hill tower

Dhaulagiri and prayer flags



Trekking crew on Poon Hill, Ram, Tom, Govinda & Donna

Back at our hotel we can finally see the view that hotel guest get. Yesterdays clouds covered it up but today, it‘s magnetically visible. The beautiful Himalaya’s with bright white snow covered peaks all around. The view is not as good as Poon Hill but, still pretty good. So beautiful to see, so beautiful to be here, so beautiful to be alive so we’ll just be.

View from our hotel

Next years Christmass card?

We decide to stay here for another night just resting and absorbing this wonderful scene. Get onto the internet, get e-mail and just hang out - Farkel of course.

Today’s hiking total (up Poon Hill and back) 50 minutes, 2 miles with a net elevation gain of 1,100ft (335m).

Peace and Love Tom and Donna

Day 2 - Hille to Ghorepani

“The journey of a thousand miles begins with one step.” - Lao Tzu

Waking up early we catch the sun rise while we sit and eat our breakfast. The suns rays slowly bring a beautiful orange glow to the green and brown fields surrounding our lodge.

Sunrise In Hille

After eating we quickly pack and hit the trail. Want to get an early start so we can get the 3000 + steps in before the hot afternoon sun. That’s right it‘s 3000 + steps up to Ghorepani not that we will count them but, I’m sure we’ll feel them. It’s not long before we have to cross our first suspension bridge. Donna is a little apprehensive at first but, goes across following Govinda.

Suspension Bridge

Then the steps appear and it begins, the consistent stepping up as we make our way towards the top. We arrive in Ulleri by 8:30AM which was pretty good time considering all the steps.

Going Up!

Along the trail we meet some young peace lovers who say “Namaste” and request sweets. No sweets, so I give them a few rupees, snap a few pictures and head on up the trail.

Peace!

Love!

At around 9:30 we stop for a spot of tea, milk tea, which taste pretty good. A few steps later, well maybe a lot of steps a lot later we arrive at Nangethanti where we stop for lunch, time 11:30AM. A fast order of Dal Bhat and Donna is off shopping for a new hat - 2^nd day on the trail and she’s shopping for a hat. Guess the steps did not wear her out. After lunch, we’ll just have to do more steps.

A new hat - sweet!

Donna & Tom

The weather is cloudy and we get a light rain during lunch making it feel cold. For most of the hike today we see a mix of sun and clouds which changes the temperature from comfortable to slightly chilly. Another 1 ½ hours of hiking and we reach Ghorepani, elevation 9,400 ft (2865m) our resting place for the night. Cloudy when we arrived with some light rain falling we check into our Hotel “the Hill Top“ and make our way to our room. To my surprise the room has a private bath with hot water, sweet! After about 30 minutes the sky started to clear, the sun appeared, and we were shown a wonderful rainbow which lasted for about 15 minutes. Everyone was out trying to get photos of it but, we had a perfect view from our bedroom window.

Got to find that pot of gold!

Tomorrow morning we’ll wake early, 4:45AM and hike the 1 mile, 1,100 ft (335m) elevation gain to Poon Hill. Our goal is to catch a beautiful sun rise displaying it‘s glory on the magnificent Annapurna mountains. Beautiful dreams!

Today’s hiking totals were 6 hours, 7 miles (11Km) with a net elevation gain of 4,500 ft (1372m).

Peace and Love Donna and Tom